Patchwork Underground

You’ve probably heard a LOT about Ginghers from other seamstresses. I’m going out on a limb here but I suspect they might have something of a cult following. My mother used them in her now-defunct sheepskin slipper business and many of the cutters at Fabric Depot here in Portland swear by them. You’ve probably also noticed that Ginghers are some of the most “high end” (read: expensive) scissors you can buy at the fabric store.  So, is the money and hype really worth it?

I wanted answers so I gave them a whirl. Two times over.  Behold, my new Ginghers Spring Action Dressmaker’s Shears in the locked position:

And my new Ginghers Pinking Shears:

As a thrifty lady who is not into buying unnecessary stuff, the thing that most appealed to me about Ginghers was the idea of forever scissors. Unlike cheaper scissors, Ginghers razor-sharp blades can be sharpened – either by a professional sharpener or by Ginghers themselves ($7.50 a pair) - again and again.

I sew lots, like many hours every day. So I wear scissors out fast. I’m all about having a dedicated pair of “fabric scissors” that I only use for fabric – no paper, no fusible, no nothing; just fabric. Even with this type of discipline my scissors end up dead eventually. The blades separate or get bowed slightly, they stop cleaving together like they used to, they start loosing their sharpness at the tip…and then in the middle…until finally you are just cutting at the way back part of the scissors…and then sooner or later they stop cutting altogether. Sound familiar? Dull dressmaking scissors are the pits and dull pinking shears are completely useless.

The good news is, I still haven’t made a dent in the razor sharpness of either the Ginghers Dressmakers’ or Pinking shears. I even grabbed the blade of the Dressmaker’s shears accidently one time and yes, it is RAZOR sharp.  Mmm…razors…

Also, I really like the weight and look of my new Ginghers. They feel good in my hand and fit my fingers well. It just feels like quality. They cut along the entire length of the blade every time, even with fiddley fabrics and heavy fabrics. Also, even non-sewers are super impressed by their shiny-ness and their over all sex appeal. When I invite friends into my sewing room, one of the first things they mention is my “fancy scissors.” (Then I brag about how they were made in Italy…and how fancy I am, WOW.

Before my Ginghers, I used a pair of Tonic scissors with a bent handle for cutting along fabric.  Here they are:

I liked these scissors a lot but I had concerns about the plastic handles – they are made of the jelly-type plastic and I was worried about phthalates. I have no evidence that these scissors contain that type of chemical and I have no evidence that they do not but they jelly handle seemed unnecessary either way. After a while, they started to dull and I switched scissors anyways.  With my Ginghers, I’m purdy darn sure we’re talking about 100% stainless steel.

Now for smaller pieces (like applique shapes) or for smaller jobs (like clipping into a round seam allowance or even trimming off stray threads) I definitely prefer the small needlework snips I just bought at Joann’s 50% sale.  They were only $2.50!  How could I resist?  Here’s a picture of them:

I wear them around my neck, laced to a long piece of ribbon. Believe it or not, I got this idea from Joan in the TV show, Mad Men. You know how she always sashays around the office halls with a pen on a string dangling from her neck?  So sexy!  My partner, Julia, is slightly disturbed about my “wearing a weapon around your neck,” as she puts it. (Total buzzkill - I thought I looked stunning!)  I might think about trying to make a sheath for it in the name of safety– maybe out of leather?  (Update: I just checked on the GIngher’s website and they have a similar pair and it comes with a nice leather sheath…darn it!)

In other news, the dress I was working on for the Lady Gaga concert is DONE!  Pics to come…

Just got done planning and hosting my little sewing workshop for Transition PDX. We made these beauties:

Patchwork was popular in the Great Depression as a way to save money and turn old clothing and scraps into something new.  I expect it will become more and more popular as our resources continue to dwindle, hence the patchwork + Transition Movement connection!  (If you don’t know about the Transition Movement, check it out!  It’s a community-building network aimed at preparing ourselves and our communities for the myriad consequences of peak oil and climate chaos.  A large part of their approach is based in DIY self sufficiency, so it’s a crafter’s paradise…)

I thought that these little 9-patch pin cushions would be a great way to teach basic sewing skills and get folks acquainted with the principals of patchwork construction.  It really got people’s creative juices flowing and some beautiful creations that got made that day.  Thank you to Henry for ring leading this workshop - I had tons of fun doing it!

In other news, Julia and I finished our coffee table top mandala!  We bought this messed up table at the Bins a few months ago for $3.  I stared at it for a long time until I figured out what to do….

…and now, OOOOO!  I love it.

I did the top in a combination of cheap acrylics, sharpie squiggles and dollar store glitter glue.  I varnished the whole thing with this awesome water-based (read: non-stinky) varnish I bought for weather-proofing an educational display I made for the Fruit Booth at Oregon Country Fair 2 years ago.  Still good!  Love this stuff.

I’m soooo excited to introduce ya’ll to my very good friend and Eugene Saturday Market mate, Gillian Smithline of Indigo Inspired.

Gillian is a wonderwoman crafter and mama who makes beautiful, sexy AND super comfy hemp clothes right out of her home studio outside Eugene, OR.  Ever since the first day I met her, I have always been inspired by Gillian’s professionalism and work ethic.  This is one seriously savvy businesswoman.

Oh yeah, and I LOVE her clothes!  I am the proud owner of one of her purple womyn wraps, one of her pixied-out watermellon-colored skirts AND one of her racer-back tank tops. So comfy!

OK, I think I’ll let Gillian take it from here.  My questions in bold.

What do you create?

I design, sew an dye every item sold from my Indigo Inspired clothing line.
I am committed to making clothing out of sustainable hemp/organic cotton fabrics.

When and how did you decided to pursue your craft full-time?

I have been a full time designer/seamstress for most of my adult life, I never had the drive to take it very far tho and mostly just made ends meet and had fun sewing and traveling with my designs.

In 2006 I gave birth to my very radical son named Indigo.

Shortly after he was born I became a full time single mom and had to figure out how to create a life for my son without struggle and too much hardship.
I knew I wanted to continue to work at home so I could be around to experience his first “milestones” and I also knew I was an experienced seamstress the next step was just to take it to the next level.
I officially named my business Indigo Inspired and invested in high quality machines, threads, dyes and fabrics.
I started busting out a production line with a few designs and over the years I have tried to keep at least 25 constants in my on-line shop. At the moment I have 36. I have to say I have really been inspired this year..

How did you come up with your business name?

Hmmm, my son I suppose. I really wanted my business name to reflect my passion for being a independent single mom living life for her son. I am truly inspired by his youth and energy.

What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned in starting your own crafty business?

Take time to look streamlined and professional.
Stay true to my roots and support other small businesses for my supplies I use (labels, business cards, fabric, dyes).

What inspires you most?

My son and I live in a super sweet cabin on some acerage in the woods outside of Eugene Oregon. Life in the woods is super influential in my designs; paradoxically so is my growing up in Los Angeles. I love to read European high fashion magazines while sitting in my garden. It’s all about balance I suppose.
Indigo inspired me in all ways.
He is a fearless, happy, delightful little soul and I love to take lessons from him in my acceptance to trying new things and putting myself “out there” without the fear of failing.
Being a tomboyish mama also inspires me to design clothing that looks fashion forward but is also easy and comfortable to run with the kids/friends and play hard.
Right now I have been loving on some looks from the early 70’s punk days and also Thai/Burmese/African body mod styles.
Ancient dieing tribal styles mixed with earth mother mixed with rock and roll.
Music is always on! At the moment Minor Threat is fueling this interview. I also have very strong roots in a fabulous spiritual center down in Los Angeles called Agape. It is a simple and beautiful message they walk and talk. I listen to the music from Agape and sermons most of the time when I am sewing. I have even added a line from one of my favorite songs onto my labels~ Blessed Always.
I need to feel happy and grateful when I am working. I will not attempt to sew, cut, dye or design if I am in a bad mood. I don’t want to put that energy into my clothing, and I find I make tons more mistakes. Having a simple mantra I can repeat is a great way to lift my spirits and help me create and be the working mama I want to be. Blessed Always.

haha.

Do I sound insane Erin?
A spiritual/punk/tribal/high fashion/city/woods/mama? hmmmm

What’s your favorite tool, technique or project?

My favorite part of my process is for sure the designing. Most of the time the designs come to me in dreamlike trances. I love figuring out how to transform an idea into a real live flattering comfortable item of clothing. Divine!
My favorite tool is a silver sharpie to make marks on black fabric.
I also love my big super power magnet for catching up all loose needles and such.

What the biggest challenge (if any) you’ve had to overcome in pursuing your craft?

Making a schedule and sticking to it.

Narrowing down my designs I make for my online shops to what I want to sell in my art fair/market and festival booths.
I am always unsure of what to consolidate into actually making for production for my shows since I vend in an 8by8 or 10by10 space on the weekends. There is really not that much clothing you can squeeze into a space that small…

Learning how to be a business woman when all I really want to be is the artist ♥

If you had time, what new medium would you want to learn/new thing would you want to do?

Oh boy. Time.. I wish I did have it!
I used to have a hand in all sorts of creative endeavors but now it seems like I really only have time for this since I am still doing every aspect of it all.
I would love to learn screen printing, carpentry/woodworking/general handy*womyn stuff..
I wish I could skateboard like a pro.
Hammock weaving!
I have a trombone I really want to have more time to play.
And I just know I would be a damn good craps player if anyone would teach me how to hustle.
For reals.

THE END!

Thanks, Gillian!!  Be sure to check out all of Gillian’s work at her etsy shop!

Oooo…look what I found.  Clicky clicky….

Wow, where the heck have I been??  This looks like so much fun and I had no idea it was even happening - I’ll be there tomorrow night with bells on!

In other news, I’m getting back into this blogging thing.  I have tons of fun planned.  So much fun, I made a list.

• Review of Ginghers Dressmaker’s Shears and Pinking Shears (Is it, like, really worth all that $$?)
• Ginghers GIVEAWAY - Brand new, unused Dressmakers and Pinking shears yours FREE! (Oh, YES.  Stay tuned for more details…)
• Update on my old review of the Husqvarna Viking Emerald 116 (1 year into sewing machine ownership = new joys, new beefs!)
• Gripping interview with the lovely clothing designer/all-around diva rock-star Gillian Smithline of Indigo Inspired (It’s gonna be GOOD…this lady is a genius!)  I mean, seriously, look at this romper:

Sew on!  ~ Erin

Oh my goodness it has been TOO LONG!

Sorry internet, I have been hard at work moving to Oregon City, getting hitched with Julia…(witnesseth:)…

…and finishing my first book, tentatively called Stripped Down Patchwork, for Leisure Arts.  (Yes!  So excited!  Keep an eye out next Spring for my little book of sweet modern patchwork goodies!  Lots more details to come…)

Phew, that was a lot of stuff. It didn’t seem like too much at the time but when I was finally done with all that I found myself on my face for a week or so after wards wondering what happened.  Still trying to get it back together…

Ok, the wedding.  Well, we don’t really know if it was a wedding, a hand fasting or a domestic partnering (barf) but it was fun.  We’re doin’ it for the fame (fame)!  I mean, er, health insurance.  You can see all the pics of our big day here.